What Is African Black Soap? Ingredients, Uses and Cautions

African black soap is a traditional soap from West Africa that has become popular worldwide. Authentic versions look nothing like a smooth store-bought bar.

What it is made from

According to Cleveland Clinic, ingredients vary by maker but often include:

• Ash from plantain skins, cocoa pods, leaves or bark.
• Palm and palm kernel oil.
• Coconut oil.
• Shea butter or cocoa butter.

Some versions add honey, oats, aloe or essential oils, so always check the label if you have allergies.

What authentic black soap looks like

Traditional handmade bars are usually dark brown or gray, soft, crumbly and uneven. Smooth, uniform, jet-black bars are often milled or commercial "black soap" products, which can still be good soaps but are not the same thing.

What the evidence says

Cleveland Clinic notes some interesting early findings, for example on its cleansing and antibacterial activity, but much of the evidence is limited or self-reported. Claims that it treats acne, eczema or dark spots are not well proven. Soap sold to treat conditions is legally a drug in the U.S.

Where it comes from

Black soap has been made for generations in West Africa, especially Ghana, Nigeria, Togo and Benin, where it goes by local names such as alata samina in Ghana and ose dudu in Yoruba. It is often made by women's cooperatives, and recipes are passed down within families and communities. The ash is made by sun-drying and roasting plant material such as plantain skins or cocoa pods, then mixing it with water and oils and cooking it by hand.

How to tell authentic from commercial versions

• Look: handmade black soap is usually dark brown, soft and lumpy. Very smooth, uniformly black bars are usually milled or colored.
• Ingredients: traditional bars list ash and plant oils. Commercial versions may add fragrance, colorants, or charcoal for a darker look.
• Packaging: fair trade or cooperative sourcing information is a good sign.
• Price: genuine handmade soap made by small producers is rarely the cheapest option.

How to use black soap

1. Break off a small piece and keep the rest of the block dry and wrapped.
2. Rub the piece between wet hands to make a lather, or put it in a soap saver bag.
3. Apply the lather to skin, not the bar itself, especially on the face.
4. Rinse well and moisturize straight after.
5. Start with a few times a week and see how your skin responds.

Storing raw black soap

Raw black soap contains a lot of moisture and natural glycerin, so it absorbs water from the air and can get soft or develop a white film. That film is usually harmless soda ash or moisture, not mold. Keep the block in a sealed bag or container, break off pieces as you need them, and use a draining dish between uses.

Cautions

• It can be drying. Use a small amount and moisturize afterward.
• Patch test first, especially with sensitive skin.
• Raw bars can be gritty. Lather in your hands rather than rubbing the bar on your face.
• Do not combine with other strong exfoliants.

Ready to try it? See the best African black soaps.